Ikat is a technique of tie-and-dye of handlooms.
Some Indian states have the Geographical Indication (GI) tags for their own unique and special Ikat.
This includes-
Odisha- Orissa Ikat, Sambalpuri Bandha Saree and Fabrics, Khandua Saree and Fabrics;
Telangana- Pochampally Ikat; Telia Rumal;
Gujarat- Patan Patola
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| Can you identify this Ikat? |
How can we identify a Saree?
What is the distinguishing feature?
There is of course the heritage weave with a distinct technique or preparation process employed by the weaver or producer group that many customers and even sellers may not be aware of.
However, for most customers, the motifs or designs help us visually identify a Saree type.
The issue is when other states copy a particular state's traditional patterns or motifs.
Could you identify the name of the Saree given above and below?
In the above image, notice that both Pochampally Ikat and Telia Rumal have been mentioned.
This particular motif/design is of Telia Rumal as per the description given above.
But, Pochampally Ikat and Telia Rumal have their own distinct GIs.
See the following images-
Weaver Kunti Ramulu shown below is weaving a Telia Rumal Saree-
This pattern is "Telia Rumal".
Now, these designs are being copied by Sambalpuri Bandha, Khandu and Orissa Ikat weavers too.
Copying another state's heritage weaves' motifs and selling as one's own- how far is this ethical or supportive of our GI cause?
How can one identify the Saree type when the body has such work?
Borders can be an indication. But, even the borders are being copied these days!
Sometimes, entire works of other states are passed off as one's own. For example, the following are Odisha Handloom—Orissa Ikat GI sarees. But these are being sold as Pochampally Ikat!
Odisha is not getting due credit with no mention in the description-
What will the buyer/customer learn?
They get to know whatever they are told by the seller.
Sometimes, even the top officials and ministers are unaware as they have been fed the wrong information!
This Saree has our traditional Sambalpuri Bandha motifs. It was gifted and promoted as Pochampally Ikat!
This X (formerly Twitter) thread has more-
This is how there is wrong information.
When celebrities and famous people are involved, they lend credibility and acceptance of such lies to their fans and followers. The wrong information is easily and readily spread, becoming popular and viral.
Efforts must be on to ensure correct representation.
Those in charge must be responsible and accountable and not peddle fake narratives.
First, know your product well enough and ensure no violations.
Producers/weavers must ensure their traditional and unique heritage designs and motifs are conserved and promoted.
Those are our distinguishing features and make us stand out.
Dr. Seuss had rightly observed- "Why fit in when we are born to stand out?"
Why copy others and be called by their name rather than our own?
I'd like to request all the weavers, sellers, and promoters to please be aware and take care. Let us focus on our unique and special patterns. They are special as they are unique heritage weaves. Let us keep them that way—pure, undiluted, and sacred.
Do you know the names of different sarees? Can you identify them?
Were you aware of the sarees in the images?
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